SPANTIK (7027 m) Expedition - (Pakistan
Spantik Peak is known by various names of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur.
Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an charming climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the
Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition as well as regular practice are needed to be on this expedition.
Overview Itinerary
Day Date Day Details
01 Arrive Islamabad ,Pindi, equipment assortment & checking
02 Fly Islamabad to Skardu Or Drive Chilas/Narran 08/10 hrs drive, 500 km
03 At Skardu , Arrive from Narran/Chilas > Skardu, 7/8 hrs drive, 270 km,
04 Skardu, distribution of loads, acclimatization
05 Skardu > Arandu, 7/8 hrs Jeep drive, Camp.
06 Arandu > Man Pakora, 6/7 hrs TREK, Camp.
07 Man Pakora > Balocho, 7/8 hrs TREK, Camp.
08 Balocho > KL Base Camp, 7/8 hrs TREK, Camp.
09 Base Camp, establishment & formation.
10 10/27 -1, days at the base camp for climbing the peak.
15 climb 2, est. Camp 1
16 climb 3, try Camp 2
17 climb 4, try Camp 2
19 climb 5, est. Camp 2
18 climb 6, try Camp 3
19 climb 7, try Camp 3
20 climb 8, Est. Camp 3
21 climb 9, Attack-1
22 climb 10, Attack 1, reserve day
23 climb 11, Attack 1, descend
24 climb 12, Attack 2
25 Climb 13. Attack 3
26 climb 14, descend to Camp 2
27 climb 15, descend to base camp
28 Closing @ Base Camp
29 Trek to Man Pakora
30 Trek to Arandu village
29 Jeep Arandu to Skardu
30 Fly to ISB / drive to Chilas/Narran
33 Drive Chilas > Islamabad – closing of expedition
34 Arrive Lahore!!!!!
35 Reserve day
Cost Includes:
Briefing & Debriefing:
Welcome reception (briefing) meeting (debriefing) at Skardu GB Office.
Transportation:
Road transfers between airport/hotel and within city as per itinerary. 4x4 jeep from Skardu to Arandu and back to Skardu, truck loader for all kind of equipment’s up &down;.
Accommodation:
Hotel accommodation at tourist class hotels at Rawalpindi/Islamabad, Chilas and Skardu.
Base Camp Kitchen:
Dinning tents, Kitchen equipment, bathroom, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gears.
Base Camp Facilities:
Mess tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen and toilet tent with tables/field stools, washroom. tent and camping ground fees.
Guide:
Mountain professional Guide.
Cook & Helper:
One cook and one helper for BC
High Camp Equipment’s:
02 Dome tents, for each camp.
Meals and BC Food:
All meals at hotels, during trek, at B.C and Climbing.
Porterage:
Porterage of 50 kg per person of expedition equipment and high-altitude food etc. to the B.C and return from BC to road head Arandu Village.
High Altitude Porters:
02 experience High altitude porters/supporting crew their Personal Equipment’s
(Addition HP required will be charge US$ 1800 per HP.
Electrical at BC.
Generator for electrical supply at BC with patrol. Solar plate with lights for lighting system.
Local Staff Insurance:
Insurance of our field staff Guide, Cook, kitchen staff, porters & assistants and low altitude porters (expect HP.
Porterage’s:
Local Porterage from Arandu to base camp and back to arandu village.
Allowance Wages:
Wages and basic kit of guide, Sardar, cook and assistant(s).
Cargo:
Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.
Insurance:
Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
Guarantee:
Above quotation is based on present porter rates and valid for 2021.
Cost Excludes:
International airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.
Doctor, Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.
Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions.
Clearing agent charges.
Domestic Airfare:
airfare ISB-KDU-ISB Return tickets Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to the kick off point.
Tips for HP Porters and staff tips
High Climbing Equipment’s
Ice screw. Snowball, Climbing and fix Rope, EPI Gas and staves.
High altitude food:
Foods for climbing list will be shard in advance.
High Climbing Equipment’s
Personal gear for climbing.
Mountain royalty Permit fees:
permit &royalty; of the mountain US$1500 for 7 Member Group and Additional Member US$ 180
Climbing Gear:
Rope, ice screw, snow bar, EPI gas, cooking pots,
Oxygen Supplement:
Cylinder, 02 Oxygen set hoses, regulator, supply to high camps,
Thuraya Phone:
Satellite phone services with fixed calling charge with Solar Charger and Walkie Talkie radio for communication.
Solar Penal for Charging:
Solar power at BC for Charging.
Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond for USD 1000
Rescue Mission. In case of emergency Helicopter required for rescue US$ 14,000 will be advance deposited in Askeri aviation account if refundable.
Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet
Tipping System:
If you have an excellent experience, a gratuity is a great way to show your appreciation. Tips of 5-10% of the trip price are recommended, and will be distributed amongst the expedition leader, HPs, cook staff, and porters. This is a general guideline. The actual number of gratuities should be based on your quality of experience, ability, and the professionalism of the staff. The following is the minimum gratuity for Spantik.
Staff Group Tips
Summit Attempt Bonus HP a who climbed with members who did not summit (this cost will be split amongst the members who climbed with the HPs).
Successful Summit Bonus HPS for summits with members (this cost will be split amongst the members who climbed with the HPs).
Refund:
If the climbing cancellation is made 30 days + prior to departure full payment will be refunded and a nominal communication service charge will be deducted.
RVT reserves the right to deduct:
50% cancellation charge from paid package price if the cancellation is made in less than 20 day of arrival date.
75% in case of cancellation in less than 14 days.
In case of cancellation prior to arrival, all charges in respect of confirmed bookings that entail no-show charges by hotels/transport/airline will have to be paid by the clients.
Anyone deciding to abandon the trip after arrival or leave during the trip for whatever reason(s) whether the clients own or external (of the nature of force majeure) will not be eligible for a refund. This also applies in case the entire group completes/abandons the trip and decides to return earlier than the agreed time schedule.
Nominal communication service charge will also be deducted from the refund.
PHOTOS (5)
