Mt Kenya 8 Days Technical - Nelion Peak

Language English
Cost 2750 USD for tour/excursion
Capacity 1 person
Duration 1 week 1 day

Day 1: Nairobi – Mt Kenya

Pick up from Nairobi airport or Nairobi hotel Transfer to Bantu Mountain Rock Lodge for lunch. In the afternoon take a nature walk (3-4 hours) through the forest to the Mau Mau caves, the former hideouts for Kenya's

per-independence guerrillas. Accompanied by a naturalist guide, will explain more about the flora and fauna of the mountain forest.

Dinner and overnight at Mount Rock Lodge.

Day 2: Mt Kenya Sirimon (2,600m) – Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

Leave the lodge by 10:00am together with your guide and porters and drive for approx. two hours to Sirimon Park gate (2,600m).

After completing the park entry formalities and enjoying a picnic lunch, 3-4-hour hike through the forested foothills of the mountain. Today’s walk will see you climb 700m

through the bamboo, rosewood and heather zones to Old Moses camp. The forest and bamboo are home

to buffalo, elephant, bushbuck and a plethora of bird species. Dinner and overnight at Old Moses Camp- (3,300m).

Day 3: Old Moses Camp(3,300m) - Shipton's Hut (4,200m) A long day leading to the base of the high peaks, as you trek through the moorlands and the Mackinder Valley, will have a good views of the main peaks and a brief stop for picnic lunch. Total walking time is approx. 7 hours, gaining 900m in altitude. Dinner and overnight at Shipton's Hut (4,200m).

Day 4: Shipton's Hut (4,200m)

Today is an acclimatization day. There will be the option to trek to Hausberg Col for fabulous views and acclimatization, or to Point John, one of Mount Kenya’s lesser peaks, where you can practice rope work and abseiling in preparation for the start of your technical climb to Nelion on the morrow.

Day 5: Shipton's Hut (4,200m) - Point Lenana (4,985m) - Austrian Hut (4,790m)

Nelion Peak Preparation: Early morning trek (3-4 hours) to reach Point Lenana (4,985m), the trekkers’ summit, in time to watch the sunrise. On a clear day you can see the snow-capped summit of Mount Kilimanjaro miles away to the south. Then, continue round and down to Austrian Hut (4,790m) where we

spend the rest of the day preparing for the technical climb of Nelion peak.

Days 6: Austrian Hut (4,790m) - Technical climbing – Nelion ( 5188 meters).

Wake up at 4 am and have some tea and biscuits. Take the 2-hour trek to cross the Lewis Glacier and up to the Base of Nelion. Embark on the 6-hour rock-climbing expedition to Nelion Peak (5188 meters).

Traverse the gate of mist to Batian Peak (5199 meters); the highest peak on Mount Kenya. Climb back to the Nelion Peak. Dinner and overnight at Ian Howell Hut (5,100 meters)- Full board

The normal route to Nelion is attempted via the southern side of Mount Kenya, and is best

accessed from Austrian hut. It is an early start. After crossing the boulder field at the foot of the Lewis Glacier with head torches on, you scramble up the scree to the base of the climb. The first part of the climb can be hard as a result of the cold, and the daunting long day ahead. Generally, you have completed the first 2 pitches before first light.

Once the sun comes out, and your muscles are nice and warm, the climbing becomes even more enjoyable. As you work through the pitches you will pass famous features such as “One O’clock Gully”, “The Amphitheatre” and “De Graaf’s Variation,” which present a good mix of easy and

more challenging climbing. “Baillie’s Bivvy,” a disused hut, can be considered the half-way point on this spectacular route.

The summit of Nelion is generally reached in 6-8 hours.

Howell Hut, on the summit of Nelion, can be used as an overnight bivvy should the group be interested in crossing over to Batian. The crossing via the “Gate of the Mists,” involves dropping some 35m off Nelion and climbing a further 70m to the summit of Batian. The estimated time to do the crossing and return to Nelion is 3-4 hours – this is variable, and totally dependent on ice levels within the “Gate of the Mists”. A night in Howell prior to descending the following morning

is an option, however, if you move fast the climb and descent is best done in a single day. Your guide will provide advice, and help with these decisions prior to, and during the climb.

Day 7: Howell Hut / Meru Bandas

On this day, if the weather was not conducive on the previous day, we proceed to undertake the climbing activities that we might have missed. This day is crucial because of the unpredictable weather in October.

Dinner and overnight either at Howell Hut or Meru Bandas depending on the activities of the day.

Day 8: Howell Hut - Meru Bandas – Chogoria - Nairobi

Abseil down to the bottom about 9 ropes, 50 meters and then walk to the Austrian Hut (4,790 meters) for Breakfast. Take the descent through Chogoria route to the Meru Bandas (2,950 meters) for lunch before being picked at the park gate for your transfer to Nairobi.

Arrival Nairobi in the late afternoon and you are dropped off either at your Nairobi Hotel or at Jomo Kenyatta Airport

Recommended Seasons for Various Climbing Routes for Technical Climbing of Mount Kenya


Normal Routes, Standard IV: South West Ridge, Standard v (Rock routes)


North Face Standard route, Standard IV (Rock Route) North Face Sirimon Approach


South-East Face Route, Standard IV, Ice Window, Standard V (ice routes)

Mid July to end of September

Ice Climbing through the ‘Diamond Couloir’

This attempt to the main summit of Point Lenana (4,985 m) is included for people not wishing to attempt the much more difficult twin summits of Mt. Kenya Nelion and possibly Batian is technically a much difficult scramble.

Kenyan Technical Guides

The local Technical Guides, who are contracted to lead climbs on Mount Kenya, are attached to the Mount

Kenya National Park as part of the Kenya Wildlife Service Mountain Rescue Team. To qualify for this position, they need to be well trained as mountaineers. They have to be able to participate in rescue operations as well as lead climbs up the twin technical peaks of Nelion and Batian. Most of the guides hold diplomas in mountaineering from the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) of America and

another diploma from Austrian Rescue Team.

They all have over 10 years’ experience as mountaineering guides with most of these years having been

permanently engaged as a member of the KWS mountain rescue team. Technical guides normally linkup with climbers at either Austrian or Shipton’s hut a day before the climb. Technical guides lead the

technical climbing section only and thus the climbers also require the assistance of regular trail guides and porters to reach the technical climbing base. Each technical guide leads a group of 3 climbers at a time for safety reasons. Technical Climbing Equipment

Essential gear required for the climbs are categorized under personal climb gear and group climb gear.

Each climber must bring along their own personal climb gear listed here, while group gear listed is shared

among the group of 1 to 3 persons. Group gear can be supplied by the guides on request but it’s always

advisable for the climbers to bring as much of their own climbing gear as possibly.

Personal climbing gear:

Helmet. Harness. Crampons. Ice axe. Belay device of choice. 2 slings (1 short and 1 long). 2 locking

karabiners. Quick draws. Cow-tail. Light and warm sleeping bag, bivvy bag, good mountain boots well

soled for technical climbing and optional – rock shoes. Thermal gloves and leather belay gloves. Sufficient

warm clothing, rain gear and wind breaker. Snacks, water bottle, protective sun cream, first aid kit etc

The Climb is inclusive of:

Return transfer Nairobi - Mount Kenya Base - Nairobi, Accommodation at Mountain Rock Lodge or Similar

3 meals per day while trekking

8 days Mt. Kenya trekking

7 nights’ accommodation while trekking

2 transfers to and from the Mt Kenya Park Gate, All government park fees at Mt Kenya national park, One Technical Mountain Climbing Guide, English Speaking mountain guides and porters

Exclusive of:

Gloves, Sun glasses, Sleeping bag, Hats, Rain suits, Warm Jacket, Heavy boots, Scarf's, Rain

Trousers. Other technical mountain climbing equipment as mentioned above.

Price is exclusive of first and last night accommodation in Nairobi.


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