Keys to Hemingway's Heart: Exploring the Charms of Key West

Ernest Hemingway's connection with Key West is a significant aspect of his life and legacy. Hemingway first arrived in Key West in 1928 with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer. The decision to move to Key West was partly influenced by the writer's love for fishing and the sea, as well as his desire for a more relaxed and idyllic lifestyle.

Hemingway at work in his home

Hemingway was drawn to the laid-back atmosphere of Key West, where the waters teemed with marine life, offering ample opportunities for fishing, one of his favorite pastimes. The island's unique blend of culture and history also appealed to him. Key West's diverse community, including a mix of locals, artists, and bohemians, provided a vibrant backdrop for his creative pursuits.

Hemingway's typewriter

In 1931, Hemingway purchased a Spanish colonial-style house on Whitehead Street in Key West, where he lived with Pauline and their two sons. This house, now known as the Hemingway Home and Museum, is a popular tourist attraction and a symbol of the author's time on the island. The house served as a residence for Hemingway until 1939, and during this period, he wrote some of his most notable works, including "Death in the Afternoon," "A Farewell to Arms," and "To Have and Have Not."

Hemingway purchased a Spanish colonial-style house on Whitehead Street in Key West

Hemingway's years in Key West were marked by his involvement in the local community, including his interactions with other artists and writers. He frequented local bars and cafes, becoming a part of the island's social scene. The easygoing lifestyle of Key West provided Hemingway with a setting that fueled his creativity and influenced his writing style.

While his marriage with Pauline eventually ended in divorce, and Hemingway later moved to Cuba, his legacy in Key West persists. The Hemingway Home and Museum is a testament to his time on the island, preserving the ambiance of the 1930s and showcasing the artifacts and memorabilia associated with the author. Today, Key West remains an essential destination for literature enthusiasts who seek to explore the footsteps of one of the most iconic figures in American literature.

The way from Florida to the Key West

Hemingway Mansion on Key West

Ernest Hemingway's house in Key West, now known as the Hemingway Home and Museum, is a beautiful Spanish colonial-style mansion with a rich history. Here are some details about the Hemingway Home:

• Location:
  • The house is located at 907 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida. It is situated in the heart of Old Town Key West.
• Architecture:
  • Built in 1851, the house is a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture, featuring a two-story structure with a wide veranda and balconies. It has a unique and distinctive design that adds to its charm.

A prime example of Spanish colonial architecture

• Ownership:
  • Hemingway purchased the home in 1931 for $8,000, and he and his second wife, Pauline, lived there with their two sons. The property served as their residence until their divorce in 1939.
• Features:
  • The house boasts several notable features, including a tropical garden with lush vegetation and a centrally located swimming pool. The pool was a significant addition, as it was the first in-ground pool in Key West.

Swimming pool in the center of the garden

• Descendants:
  • The house is also known for its population of polydactyl (six-toed) cats, descendants of a cat named Snow White, a gift from a ship's captain to Hemingway. Many of these cats still roam the property; the descendants are called "Hemingway cats."

Hemingway's home

In September 2017, as Hurricane Irma bore down on the Florida Keys, the federal government issued a mandatory evacuation order for the entire island chain. Despite this directive, the museum's curator, general manager, and a dedicated team of employees chose not to abandon their post. Hemingway's granddaughter, concerned for their safety, implored them to evacuate, reminding them, "It's just a house." However, unwavering in their commitment, several employees opted to stay behind, ensuring the well-being of the resident cats and the preservation of the historic house. Miraculously, they weathered the storm unscathed.

Fast forward to the COVID-19 pandemic, and the Hemingway Home and Museum faced another formidable challenge. With tourism plummeting, the museum was compelled to make difficult decisions, resulting in the unfortunate layoff of over 30 employees and a staggering fifty percent reduction in their dedicated staff. These trying times underscore the resilience of both the institution and its employees, who have weathered not only natural disasters but also the economic impacts of a global crisis. Through it all, the spirit of the Hemingway Home endures, a testament to the unwavering dedication of those who have stood by its side.

• Hemingway's Writing Studio:
  • On the property, a separate building served as Hemingway's writing studio. It is a cozy space above the garage where he wrote some of his most famous works.
• Hemingway's Legacy:
  • The Hemingway Home and Museum is a testament to the author's time in Key West and has become a popular tourist attraction. It is filled with memorabilia, including original furnishings, letters, and personal belongings of Hemingway and his family.

Hemingway working place

• Guided Tours:
  • Visitors to the Hemingway Home can take guided tours that provide insights into Hemingway's life in Key West, his writing process, and the house's history. The knowledgeable guides offer anecdotes and stories that bring the past to life.
• Historic Designation:
  • The Hemingway Home is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and designated Literary Landmark.

The National Historic Landmark plate on the Hemingway mansion

The Hemingway Home and Museum not only preserves the house's historical significance but also offers a glimpse into the personal life and creative mind of one of America's most significant literary figures.

Hemingway's Influence on Key West

Ernest Hemingway's influence on Key West is profound and enduring. His presence on the island during the 1930s left an indelible mark on the community and the cultural fabric of Key West. Here are some ways in which Hemingway influenced Key West:

• Cultural Impact:
  • Hemingway's arrival brought an influx of artistic and literary energy to Key West. His presence attracted other writers, artists, and intellectuals, making the island a hub of creativity and cultural exchange.

Hemingway/s mansion location on Key West

• Literary Legacy:
  • Key West was the backdrop for some of Hemingway's most celebrated works, including "A Farewell to Arms" and "To Have and Have Not." The island's atmosphere, with its laid-back lifestyle and maritime culture, is reflected in his writing.
• Social Scene:
  • Hemingway became an integral part of Key West's social scene. He frequented local bars, cafes, and fishing spots, engaging with the community and establishing lasting friendships. His larger-than-life personality contributed to the island's allure.

A quiet and shadowy location of Hemingway's home on Key West

• Influence on Local Businesses:
  • Hemingway's patronage of local businesses, such as Sloppy Joe's Bar, Captain Tony's Saloon, and Blue Heaven, helped boost their popularity. These establishments, where Hemingway was a regular, have become iconic landmarks in Key West.
• Fishing Culture:
  • Hemingway's love for deep-sea fishing played a role in popularizing the activity in Key West. The island's reputation as a premier fishing destination grew, attracting enthusiasts worldwide.

Hemingway, his wife, 2 sons and Marlins

• Hemingway Days Festival:
  • Key West hosts an annual Hemingway Days Festival in honor of Hemingway's legacy. The event celebrates the author's life with activities like a Hemingway look-alike contest, literary readings, and a marlin fishing tournament.

The Nobel Prize winner lived behind this brick fence

• Hemingway Home and Museum:
  • The Hemingway Home, where he lived and wrote in Key West, has become a significant tourist attraction. The museum preserves the historic property and showcases Hemingway's personal belongings, giving visitors a glimpse into his life.

The Hemingway Home on Key West - now a Museum

• Literary Tourism:
  • Key West has become a destination for literary tourism, with visitors drawn to the places where Hemingway lived, wrote, and socialized. The island's connection to the author continues to attract literature enthusiasts and scholars.
• Legacy in Arts and Letters:
  • Hemingway's legacy has inspired subsequent generations of writers and artists in Key West. The island remains a haven for those seeking a creative and inspiring environment, partly due to the influence of Hemingway's time there.

The Sun Also Rises is the first novel by the American writer Ernest Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway's impact on Key West extends beyond his literary contributions; it encompasses a cultural and social influence shaping the island's identity. Hemingway's legacy continues to be celebrated, ensuring that his connection to Key West endures for generations to come.

The Hemingway Days Festival

The Hemingway Days Festival is an annual event held in Key West, Florida, to celebrate the life and legacy of the iconic American author Ernest Hemingway. The festival typically takes place in July, coinciding with the author's birthday on July 21. Here are the key features and activities associated with the Hemingway Days Festival:

On Hemingway Days Festival, the streets of Key West are complete with Hemingways

• Hemingway Look-Alike Contest:
  • One of the festival's highlights is the Hemingway Look-Alike Contest, where participants worldwide compete to resemble the legendary author. Contestants, often donning white beards and safari attire reminiscent of Hemingway's signature style, gather at Sloppy Joe's Bar, a historic Key West establishment frequented by Hemingway.
• Papa's Pilar Key West Marlin Tournament:
  • Given Hemingway's love for deep-sea fishing, the festival includes the Papa's Pilar Key West Marlin Tournament. Anglers participate in this tournament, testing their fishing skills in the waters around Key West. The game pays homage to Hemingway's passion for the sport and the maritime culture of the island.

Caught Black Marlin Fish Jumping From Water

Marlin Fish:

Marlins are large, predatory fish belonging to the family Istiophoridae. They are known for their distinctive appearance, characterized by a long, sword-like upper jaw or bill. There are several species of marlins, with the most well-known being the Atlantic blue marlin (Makaira nigricans) and the Indo-Pacific sailfish (Istiophorus platypterus).

Critical features of marlins include:

• Bill or Rostrum: Marlins have a prolonged, spear-like upper jaw, which is called a bill or rostrum. This feature distinguishes them from other fish species.

Striped marlin and sea lion hunting in sardine bait ball in pacific ocean

• Dorsal Fin: Marlins typically have a prominent dorsal fin, often running along a significant portion of their back.
• Coloration: The coloration of marlins can vary, but they often have a blue to silver color on their sides and a white belly. This helps them blend into their oceanic environment.
• Size: Marlins are among the largest of the bony fish. They can reach impressive sizes, with some individuals exceeding 1,000 pounds.
• Habitat: Marlins are pelagic fish, meaning they inhabit the open ocean rather than coastal areas. They are often found in warm waters and are known for their migratory behavior

Raw Marlin Steaks

• Diet: Marlins are carnivorous and feed on a variety of prey, including smaller fish and cephalopods. They are renowned for their speed and agility, making them adept predators.
• Sport Fishing: Due to their size and the challenge they pose, marlins are highly sought after by sport fishermen. Catch-and-release practices are often encouraged to support conservation.

It's important to note that marlins are significant in recreational and commercial fisheries. However, some species face conservation concerns due to overfishing.

• Sloppy Joe's Annual Arm Wrestling Contest:
  • Sloppy Joe's Bar, a favorite haunt of Hemingway, hosts an arm wrestling contest as part of the festivities. The competition adds a playful and competitive element to the celebration.

Sloppy Joe's Bar on Key West

• Running of the Bulls:
  • In a playful nod to Hemingway's connection to Spain, the festival features the "Running of the Bulls," a tongue-in-cheek event where participants, dressed as bulls, chase "Papas" through the streets of Key West.
• Literary Readings and Presentations:
  • The festival includes literary readings, presentations, and discussions about Hemingway's works and his impact on literature. Scholars, authors, and enthusiasts come together to explore different aspects of Hemingway's life and writing.

A Farewell to Arms - another masterpiece of Hemingway

• Hemingway 5K Sunset Run/Walk:
  • A sporting element is introduced with the Hemingway 5K Sunset Run/Walk, where participants can enjoy a scenic route and experience the island's beauty while honoring Hemingway's commitment to an active lifestyle.

Hemingway not only had cats but also a wonderful rooster

• Conch Shell Blowing Contest:
  • The Conch Shell Blowing Contest is another entertaining aspect of the festival. Participants showcase their skills in producing melodic sounds with conch shells, adding a touch of local flavor to the celebration.
• Sloppy Joe's Look-Alike Fishermen Challenge:
  • This event at Sloppy Joe's Bar combines the look-alike contest with a fishing challenge, emphasizing both Hemingway's distinctive appearance and his passion for fishing.

Numerous "Hemingways" love literature, and to talk about it

The Hemingway Days Festival attracts diverse visitors, from literature enthusiasts and scholars to locals and tourists seeking a unique and festive experience. The combination of literary appreciation, fishing competitions, and playful events pays homage to the multifaceted personality of Ernest Hemingway. It reflects the spirit of Key West as a vibrant and creative community.

Hemingway's Polydactyl Cats and the Spirit of Key West

The polydactyl cats of Hemingway's home in Key West are a unique and charming aspect of the Hemingway Home and Museum. These cats, often referred to as "Hemingway cats," are descendants of a white six-toed cat named Snow White, given to Ernest Hemingway by a ship's captain. Hemingway was known to have a fondness for cats, and the presence of these polydactyl felines has become an integral part of the historic property. Here are some critical details about the polydactyl cats at the Hemingway Home:

Can you count all the fingers?

• Polydactyl Traits:
  • Polydactyl cats have a genetic mutation that gives them extra toes on their paws. The result is a distinctive look, often described as resembling mittens. While polydactyl cats can have varying numbers of extra toes, Hemingway cats typically have six toes on each paw.
• Snow White and the Origin:
  • Snow White, the original six-toed cat, was given to Hemingway in the 1930s. Legend has it that a ship's captain presented the cat to Hemingway as a good luck charm. Snow White's descendants, many of whom are polydactyl, still inhabit the Hemingway Home.

1,2,3,4,5,6,7.....

• The population of Cats:
  • The Hemingway Home is home to approximately 40 to 50 cats, many of which carry the polydactyl trait. The cats freely roam the property, lounging on furniture, exploring the gardens, and interacting with visitors.
• Hemingway Cats' Names:
  • The cats at the Hemingway Home often have unique and literary-inspired names. Some are named after characters from Hemingway's novels, while others might be named after famous people or places associated with the author.

So little and already so many fingers!!!

• Care and Well-Being:
  • The cats receive proper veterinary care, including vaccinations and spaying or neutering, to ensure their health and well-being. The staff at the Hemingway Home is dedicated to caring for and conservating these unique cats.

A living exhibit in Hemingway's bedroom

• Visitor Interaction:
  • Visitors to the Hemingway Home and Museum can enjoy the company of the cats during their tours. The cats have become a beloved attraction, and many visitors look forward to meeting them and learning about their connection to Hemingway.

cats are in every corner of Hemingway's mansion

• Historical Significance:
  • The presence of polydactyl cats at the Hemingway Home is a charming quirk and a historical point of interest. The cats are a living link to the past, connecting visitors to the time when Hemingway resided on the property.

• Cat Cemetery:
  • To honor the memory of some of the notable cats that have lived on the property, the Hemingway Home has a small cat cemetery. It is a tribute to the feline companions that have been a part of the Hemingway legacy.

Cats' cemetery

The polydactyl cats at the Hemingway Home contribute to the unique and enchanting atmosphere of the property, adding an extra layer of charm to the historical site. Their presence is a living testament to Hemingway's love for animals and the author's enduring legacy in Key West.

Hemingway's cat

Who are those Polydactyl cats?

Polydactyl cats, also known as "Hemingway cats" due to their association with Ernest Hemingway and his love for these unique felines, possess a genetic mutation that results in extra toes on their paws. This condition is called polydactyly. Anatomically, polydactyl cats exhibit variations in the number of extra toes. Still, they commonly have more than the typical five toes on their front paws and four toes on their hind paws. Here are some anatomical characteristics and information about the prevalence of polydactyly in cats:

• Extra Toes:
  • Polydactyl cats can have one to several extra toes on each paw. The additional digits often resemble thumbs or mittens, giving the cat's paws a distinctive and adorable appearance.
• Genetic Basis:
  • Polydactyly is a genetic trait, and it is inherited through a dominant gene. This means that if one parent carries the polydactyl gene, there is a high likelihood that the offspring will also inherit the trait.

• Variability in Extra Toes:
  • The number of extra toes can vary among polydactyl cats. Some may have one or two extra toes, while others can have several additional digits. The degree of polydactyly is inconsistent, adding to each cat's uniqueness.
• Common Distribution:
  • Polydactyly is not limited to a specific breed or region. Cats with this trait can be found in various breeds and geographical locations. It is more common in certain areas due to the prevalence of cats carrying the polydactyl gene.

• Prevalence in Certain Breeds:
  • While polydactyly can occur in any breed, it is notably more prevalent in certain breeds. For example, the Maine Coon is a cat breed that is often associated with polydactylism. Additionally, the trait is relatively common in cats found in the United States and Canada.

• Health Implications:
  • Polydactyly is generally not associated with any health problems in cats. The extra toes do not typically affect their mobility or overall well-being. Some argue that polydactyl cats may have an advantage in activities such as climbing or hunting.

• Cultural Significance:
  • Polydactyl cats have gained cultural significance, mainly due to their association with historical figures like Ernest Hemingway. The presence of these unique cats in various cultures has led to a certain level of fascination and appreciation for their distinctive anatomy.

Polydactyl cats are anatomically characterized by having more than the usual number of toes on their paws. This trait is inherited genetically and can manifest in various breeds and regions. The variability in the number of extra toes adds to the charm of these cats, making them stand out and capturing the attention of cat enthusiasts worldwide. The polydactyl cats that are descendants of Hemingway's original cat, Snow White, continue to live at the Hemingway Home and Museum in Key West, Florida, even though Hemingway himself is no longer alive. The cats have become an integral part of the historic property and are cared for by the museum staff.

The Hemingway Home is home to approximately 40 to 50 cats, many of whom carry the polydactyl trait. These cats freely roam the property, exploring the gardens, lounging on furniture, and interacting with visitors. The staff ensures that the cats receive proper veterinary care, including vaccinations and spaying or neutering, to ensure their health and well-being.

Memory plate on Hemingway's house

The presence of the polydactyl cats is not only a charming aspect of the Hemingway Home but also a living connection to the past. Visitors to the museum can enjoy the company of these unique felines during their tours, and the cats have become a beloved attraction for those exploring the historic property. The care and conservation of the Hemingway cats are a priority for the museum, and their continued presence adds to the overall charm and historical ambiance of the Hemingway Home in Key West.

Other Points of Interest on Key West

Key West is a vibrant and diverse destination with a rich history, beautiful landscapes, and a lively cultural scene. Besides the Hemingway Home and Museum, tourists may find numerous other attractions interesting. Here are some popular places to visit in Key West:

• Duval Street:
  • This iconic street is the heart of Key West's entertainment and nightlife. It's lined with shops, restaurants, galleries, and bars. Duval Street is a great place to explore during the day and comes alive at night.

Duval Street, Key West, Florida, USA

• Mallory Square:
  • Known for its sunset celebrations, Mallory Square is a gathering place for locals and tourists alike. Street performers, musicians, and food vendors create a lively atmosphere as the sun sets over the Gulf of Mexico.
• Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park:
  • This state park offers a beautiful beach, a historic Civil War-era fort, and nature trails. It's an excellent place to relax by the water, explore history, or enjoy outdoor activities.

Hemingway and Pigeons in Venice, Italy, 1954

• Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory:
  • This tropical paradise is home to thousands of butterflies and exotic plants. It's a serene and educational experience for nature enthusiasts and families.

Butterflies on Key West

• Mel Fisher Maritime Museum:
  • Dedicated to maritime history and shipwreck discoveries, this museum showcases artifacts and treasures recovered from shipwrecks in the Florida Keys. It's a fascinating glimpse into Key West's maritime heritage.

Hemingway in the cabin of his boat Pilar, off the coast of Cuba, 1950

• Truman Little White House:
  • Formerly the Winter White House for President Harry S. Truman, this historic site offers guided tours of the house and gardens. It provides insight into the life and times of the 33rd President.

Key West Pier

• Key West Aquarium:
  • Located in Mallory Square, the Key West Aquarium is one of the oldest aquariums in Florida. Visitors can interact with marine life, watch feedings, and learn about the diverse marine ecosystems of the Florida Keys.

Key West Lighthouse, Florida USA

• Key West Lighthouse and Keeper's Quarters Museum:
  • Climb to the top of the lighthouse for panoramic views of Key West and explore the museum to learn about the history of the lighthouse and the keepers who maintained it.

Harbor of Key West

• Southernmost Point Buoy:
  • A famous photo spot, the Southernmost Point Buoy marks the southernmost point in the continental United States. Visitors often line up to take pictures of this iconic landmark.

Southernmost Point Buoy

• Key West Historic Seaport:
  • This historic seaport area has waterfront restaurants, shops, and excursion opportunities. Visitors can take boat tours, snorkeling, or enjoy fresh seafood at one of the many waterfront eateries.

Beautiful sailboat in Key West Port

These are just a few examples of Key West's many attractions. Whether interested in history or nature or simply enjoying the laid-back atmosphere, Key West has something for every type of tourist.

The Excursion Suggestions From Local Tour Guides in Key West

Local tour guides in Key West typically offer a wide range of tours to cater to the diverse interests of visitors. Here are some popular types of tours that local guides might suggest:

• Historical Walking Tours:
  • Explore the historic neighborhoods of Key West on foot with a knowledgeable guide. Learn about the island's history, architecture, and notable landmarks, including the Truman Little White House and Key West Lighthouse.

Saint Mary Church in Key West, Florida

• Conch Train Tours:
  • Hop aboard the Conch Train, a charming tourist train, for a narrated tour of Key West's historic sites. The train takes passengers through Old Town, providing an overview of the island's history and culture.
• Eco Tours:
  • Explore the diverse ecosystems of the Florida Keys with eco-tours. These might include snorkeling trips to coral reefs, kayaking through mangroves, or wildlife-watching excursions.

Pelican

• Sunset Sailing Cruises:
  • Key West is renowned for its stunning sunsets. Sunset sailing cruises offer a romantic and scenic way to experience the evening sky over the Gulf of Mexico. Some tours include live music and refreshments.

Sunsets are extraordinary on Key West

• Dolphin-Watching Tours:
  • Take a boat tour to encounter dolphins in their natural habitat. These tours often combine dolphin watching with snorkeling opportunities in the crystal-clear waters surrounding Key West.

Dolphins of Key West

• Haunted Tours:
  • Explore the haunted side of Key West with guided walking or trolley tours. Discover tales of ghostly encounters and the island's eerie history, including visits to reputedly haunted locations.

Delicious local cocktails

• Food Tasting Tours:
  • Key West is known for its diverse culinary scene. Food-tasting tours take visitors to popular local eateries, allowing them to sample various dishes and learn about the island's gastronomic history.
• Art and Culture Tours:
  • Explore Key West's vibrant arts scene with tours that showcase local galleries, studios, and public art installations. Learn about the island's cultural influences and the work of resident artists.

A stamp printed in Czechoslovakia shows a portrait of the American writer Ernest Miller Hemingway, 1968

• Snorkeling and Scuba Diving Excursions:
  • A rich marine environment surrounds Key West. Guided snorkeling and scuba diving tours take participants to explore colorful coral reefs, underwater caves, and marine life.

Sunset Key West

• Custom Private Tours:
  • Some tour guides offer customizable private tours, allowing visitors to tailor their experience based on personal preferences. This could include historical sites, nature excursions, and cultural highlights.

It looks like the time stopped in Key West

Before choosing a tour, visitors should consider their interests, preferences, and any specific attractions they wish to explore. Local tour guides are often well-versed in the island's offerings and can provide valuable insights to enhance the overall experience.

Sunset Serenades

Key West was not merely a backdrop for Hemingway's stories; it was an integral character, influencing his narrative and shaping his approach to life. We explore the profound connection between the man and the island, unraveling the threads of inspiration woven into the fabric of Key West's vibrant culture. From the historic seaport to the lively Duval Street, every corner echoes with the echoes of Hemingway's footsteps.

A large earthenware pot with running water with giant bamboo stems in the background at Ernest Hemingway's house in Key West

Meet the charming descendants of Snow White, the six-toed cat gifted to Hemingway. As we visit the Hemingway Home and Museum, we encounter the polydactyl cats that roam freely, adding a touch of whimsy to the historic property. With their extra toes and playful antics, these feline companions offer a living connection to the author's time on the island.

The PILAR boat was the second Hemingway's home or playground

Key West pays homage to Hemingway's legacy with the annual Hemingway Days Festival. Join the festivities that bring the author's spirit to life, from the renowned look-alike contest to sunset sailing cruises that evoke the timeless allure of his words. The celebration extends beyond literature, embracing the island's maritime heritage, culinary delights, and artistic endeavors.

Hemingway's hat - pretty fashionable!

As we conclude our literary odyssey through Key West, we leave you with a sense of the island's enduring connection to Ernest Hemingway. From the polydactyl cats basking in the sunshine to the whispers of the sea, every aspect of Key West is a testament to the profound impact of one man's journey. Join us as we navigate the waters of Hemingway's Key West, where the pages of his stories continue to flutter in the warm Caribbean breeze.

Sunset on Key West

... to be continued ...

 

 

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